Sicilian getaways
Sicily’s
rugged beauty and chequered heritage make it an attractive getaway – in the
romantic, not in the Mafia sense of the word. In fact, far from being a shadowy
underworld populated by secretive families and deadly vows of silence, this
beautiful Mediterranean isle – with its eclectic mix of history, culture,
cuisine and laid-back living – is a charming, if often crumbling, retreat.
December 2006
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©2006 K.
Diab |
Cool cats in
Catania
To the casual observer, Catania seems to be a
more prosperous, albeit smaller, town than Palermo. The city’s streets are literally
paved with the black larval rock of Mount Etna, at whose foot it lies. The
black stones used for the pavements and many of the walls gives the place a
slightly eerie and morose feel, particularly on the main square, where the
serene cathedral’s white marble and limestone façade contrasts starkly with the
volcanic rock. At times, it felt like walking around a black-and-white image.
Being a university town, Catania seemed younger
and hipper than Palermo. Around our hotel – where we were checked in by the
stoned gothic son of the proprietor who was dressed all in black, just like the
city – was a hive of bars, restaurants and nightclubs which made going out to
eat a simple affair.
Catania’s main square is a pleasant space
dominated by the city’s Cathedral of the Dome, the interior of which is a
simple and sober affair. The square is a magnet for young couples posing for
their wedding photos or video films, who like to stand in front of the
cathedral and the fountain. While sipping at drinks and watching the world go
by on the terrace of a café, we were entertained by a group of young students
(probably) filming a mockumentary on the square and ruining the wedding
spectacles by moving around to film in view of the other cameras.
At the centre stands the city’s emblem, an
elephant carrying a weird obelisk on its back. This bizarre creation is
believed to protect the city against the ravages of Mt Etna which looms over
the horizon and regularly sends rivers of magma spewing towards the town.
St Agatha – who was born in and is the patron
saint of Catania – is venerated here for the extraordinary and super-human
lengths she went to in order to remain chaste. According to the legend, a Roman
prefect who was jilted by the beautiful saint-to-be ordered her to be burnt at
the stake, but not before he had her breasts amputated. Another superstition
has it that carrying her black veil in processions also protects the city
against the volcano’s fury. But these two occult measures have had something of
a hit-and-miss history. Luckily, modern-day Catania depends on sophisticated
monitoring stations and artificial channels to protect the city against all but
Etna’s worst excesses.
ã2006
K. Diab. Unless otherwise stated, all the content on this website is the
copyright of Khaled Diab.